Spelunking: the exploration of caves, especially as a hobby.
There are approximately 1679 miles of indented coastline in Shetland punctuated by the regular appearance of caves, most only accessible by sea if they are accessible at all.
The cave at the far end of St. Ninian’s tombolo is one of our family’s favourite haunts, but last year, when I heard that a large sea cave in Burra was accessible by land, my curious explorer instinct kicked in full swing.
I had to find it!
The village of Hamnavoe, in West Burra, on the south west side of Shetland, is an extremely picturesque area, great for hillwalking and exploring. It’s also home to the most awesome shed ever, wouldn’t you agree?
Last September, my eldest son and I headed to the area to look for the hidden smuggler’s cave. We met a local woman who gave us directions—to the right of the area of large stones, she said.
Parking at the car park at the pier and crossing over the beach area, we headed to the right of the rocks you can see in the top far right of this photograph. We spent nearly two hours searching, to no avail.
We did, however, enjoy a fantastic evening together, eating our supper of tinned beans and weiners and some reheated ribs he’d made in home economics class that day cooked on a gas stove on the clifftops. It was a perfectly civilised way to spend a bright and sunny evening basking in the sheltered warmth of the rocks.
Then winter kicked in. Winter in Shetland can be brutal what with relentless rain and gales, so it’s mostly an indoor affair. Searching for the sea cave was postponed until the weather improved.
Come April, the weather forecast was for full sun for an entire day. We planned an adventure—we were going to find this cave once and for all! This time, we went a little bit more prepared. I found the OS coordinates for the cave in this Shetland Amenity Trust document and plotted them into my GPS.
The ‘smugglers cave’, 200 metres inland at the headland of Pundsar, formed due to the sea exploiting the weakness of a geological fault within the rock face.
My eldest and I failed to locate the smuggler’s cave on our first attempt because we should have gone left before the rocks, not right. When you cross the hill just after the beach, you’ll see some stone ruins (pictured above). Head left along the rocky cliff edges.
The entrance is hidden where casual walkers along the coastline are unlikely to stumble upon it, and someone has very kindly built a rope and plastic tube ladder to assist entry. Don’t be daunted, it’s only perhaps five or six feet down. You can’t tell from the small entrance, but the cave opens up inside and it’s huge! You can’t touch the walls on either side when standing in the centre, and you can’t reach the ceiling either.
Of course, I forgot a lantern this time, so the only light we had was the daylight coming in from the sea entrance. The sound of the waves washing over the large boulders at the sea entrance of the cave was slightly intimidating for the smaller children, but once we were inside and our eyes adjusted it was magical!
I’d never been in a proper cave before, and I was worried about feeling claustrophobic. I surprised myself by not being phased by all those tonnes of solid rock above my head.
Our youngest had seen quite enough, though, and so we headed back to the surface to find a sheltered spot for our lunch of sandwiches wrapped in paper, fresh fruit and some leftover Easter eggs.
Afterwards, since it was still such a lovely sunny day, we carried on exploring the area. Usually, when I explore this place, I head towards the lighthouse, but for a change, we went in the other direction, lured by a patch of calm water we could see in the rocks right next to the coastal edge.
You can see the seaside entrance to the smuggler’s cave in the cliffs above, and that patch of clear water – would you believe it is an outdoor swimming pool! You can see the length of concrete at the far end laid down to keep the water level higher. There is a date etched into it. The young children of Burra used to have their swimming lessons in there!
There were plenty sea life remnants on the coastal walk around this area. The kids picked up another sample for their collection.
Our exploration was cut short when the youngest fell head-first into a rock pool. It isn’t a complete family adventure unless our youngest falls over and gets covered in mud or soaked in some manner. We’ve come to expect it!
I can now cross #15, Find that Smugglers Cave in Burra, off my 40 Things I Want to Do Before I Turn 40 list.
Chorizo & Grilled Vegetable Pizza
Gorgeous pictures! I would love to go down a cave but probably chicken out! hehe.
Sounds like good fun. Wonder what temperature the outdoor swimming pool is? (I was drawn to that because I’m posting on a muggy night …)
This looks like a great place to visit
Oh that sounds like a terrific adventure !!! What a great seascape. I’ve heard that Shetland islands are quite beautiful. I’m heading to Scotland this summer, but I don’t think I will have time to check it out.
What a picturesque place! I’d love this kind of adventure. I went caving once on a school trip (many years ago) and I loved it. Fab photos and fantastic views. Thanks for linking up to #CheckOutThatView
What an amazing adventure. I love how you preserved to find this smuggler’s cave. I’m not a big fan of them, I must admit so seeing that rope ladder going down that small hole may have scared me a little, however, I am not one to be outdone so would have gone down with some persuasion! What a beautiful part of the world you live in. Your photos are wonderful. Thanks so much for linking up with #MondayEscapes
The only cave that I have visited is the one in Wookey Hole and its massive and yet I am scared. It must be the dark and the fact that I have seen so many disaster movies already. This one looks amazing and stunning. You are so lucky to live near it and to be given a chance to visit it! #letkidsbekids
What a fabulous adventure. Absolutely stunning views as well and lovely to find a secret cave
Wow that looks like a great adventure, I’m not sure I could get half the family caving (myself included, claustrophobia) but the rest looks great fun 🙂
This is all very Famous Five! I am rather jealous and feel I want to explore a cave!!!
I want to go on an adventure with you!
What a gorgeous place, so beautiful and wonderful for children to explore. It looks a bit scary climbing down into that cave, but worth it.
Thanks for linking #LetKidsBeKids
How beautiful is that coastline!!! Spelunking looks fantastic. Can I come next time?!
It is so beautiful where you live. Stunning photos as always Elizabeth.
Wow! This is what I call adventure! I would love to go there and explore those caves!
I can never get enough of your photos of the Shetlands. It looks so beautiful on every post. I remember your search for the cover before so I’m glad you found it this time. I’m not sure I would have enjoyed those swimming lessons through burrr! Thank you for sharing your lovely day exploring on country Kids.
What a beautiful day out of adventures!!! We now know all too well since we moved to the North East that if a sunny day is forecast you have to make the most of it. You’re braver than me heading down into caves like that, as I get scared in confined spaces, but what a great time you had 🙂
What a brilliant adventure and I absolutely LOVE that shed! I’ll need to take you on an trip to the Shell Housie at Dunnottar woods. We have a fab cave at our local beach that is only accessible at low tide, I alway wonder with caves if anyone has ever lived in them.
Wow, stunning photographs but you wouldn’t catch me climbing down there so good on you for be brave:-)
Wow, how amazing is that. Im not sure I would have been brave enough to take my girlies down there. Glad you found it on the 2nd attempt.
I love your photo’s! Also, I must say, I never thought I’d ever get to utter the words ‘Cool shed’, hehe, but yes, that seashell shed was great 🙂
I’m not overly claustrophobic but not sure I’d have had the guts to climb down that rope into the cave. It looks like you all had a grand fun doing it though 🙂
Thanks so much for sharing your adventure!