In collaboration with The Post Office Travel Money Card.
Vecrīga, Latvia for ‘Old Riga’, is the historical city centre of Riga, the capital city of Latvia. It was established in 1201 by Bishop Albert and was granted city status in 1225, and in February 2018 I paid a visit to it for the first time.
I knew nothing of the city, the country or its cuisine before I arrived there, and the purpose of my visit was to discover what I could. I believe that exploring a destination via its gastronomy is one of the most authentic cultural experiences you can have. Food tells a story, covering history, economics and culture. Food links us all together, no matter where we come from. We all eat.
Armed with a €250 pre-paid Post Office Travel Money Card, and a hefty appetite for adventure, I headed the furthest east I’ve ever been via an Air Baltic flight.
I flew to Riga from Aberdeen, in Scotland, via Amsterdam. A taxi from the airport to my hotel cost €23. There are cheaper options for the 15-20 minute journey from the airport into the city, but it was cold (so cold!) and I didn’t want to wander about, poorly dressed, looking for the bus.
FAT CAT eklērnīca
The first thing I noticed about Riga, besides the stunning architecture and haphazard layout of the street plan, was how cold it was! (Did I mention it was cold?!) We forget, in Shetland and Britain, that we’re warmed nicely by the Gulf Stream. It was around -7°C while I was in Riga, and it’s a dry cold that hits your lungs and exposed flesh like dry ice. Being outside meant I couldn’t stop moving, despite wearing four layers of clothes (including thermal underwear!).
It was around 3 pm when I arrived at my hotel, which meant I had two hours to explore my nearby surroundings before it got dark. The first thing I did was head to the nearest geocache (as you do!), and have a wander around the neighbourhood. Come 4 pm I was getting rather chilled when I spotted a cosy little coffee shop, the FAT CAT eklērnīca, serving a wonderful assortment of homemade eclairs.
I opted for a hazelnut and maple syrup eclair with a latte to warm my fingers, nibbled (and sipped) cosy and warm on a couch with plenty of pillows, watching the people walk by and the fat snowflakes fall gently to the ground. It snowed the entire time I was in Riga, and I loved it.
Cost: €5.70 from the Euro Wallet in my Post Office Travel Money Card.
Riga Central Market – Europe’s Largest Market & Bazaar
I did very little research on Riga before my trip; I wanted it to be a spontaneous adventure – what could I discover about the cuisine of the city? All I did was check Google maps for the location of my hotel and some major landmarks so I would know, in general, where I was. I also checked to see if there were any markets – and there was!
Riga Central Market is Europe’s largest market and Bazaar and it was located just a few minutes’ walk from my hotel. It is housed in five German zeppelin hangars that were abandoned after the First World War and refurbished specifically to become a market. The market was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, along with Riga Old Town, in 1998.
The market is immense! Covering 72,300 square metres (778,000 sq ft) with more than 3,000 trade stands, I spent a good hour and a half wandering, watching and photographing. I felt illiterate – I know only one word of Latvian (Sveiki! It means hello!) and very few of the people I met spoke any English.
Wandering through the market, which is seen as an affordable place for people to shop in Riga due to high supermarket prices, gave me an insight into what people ate – mainly fruit, vegetables, nuts, meat and fish so fresh that some of them were still flopping about on the ice. Many ingredients were smoked, dried, salted or pickled. So many pickles!
One of the most interesting characters I met was a fellow named Gatis who owns a spice shop, Austrumu Garša, in the market. His knowledge of spice blends is extraordinary – I watched him take orders from customers and skillfully prepare his spice blends for them in a matter of seconds.
Gatis prepared me a lovely espresso with a pinch of his own special coffee spice mixture. It was deliciously warming, just what was needed on a cold Baltic day. I left his stall with a traditional Latvian blend of spices, as well as a Georgian one which I am looking forward to experimenting with.
Cost: €3 cash. I withdrew €20 from a nearby cash machine for this transaction.
After spending the morning at the market I made my way to St. Peter’s Church. I’d heard that you could climb to the top of the spire, and I was keen to see the view.
After paying for my ticket, climbing a few sets of stairs I climbed into a rather rickety lift to the second gallery, a height of 72 metres.
The views from up there are stunning!
In the above photo, you can see the five zeppelin hangars that house the Riga Central Market.
The chimes in the clock tower play the Latvian folk song “Riga dimd” five times a day, and ring bells to mark the full hour. The clock itself only has one hand to show the hour, keeping with an old tradition.
Restorāns 3 – a Taste of Nature
Ranked the second best restaurant in Riga by The White Guide, Restorāns 3 was a spontaneous, accidental (delightful!) find for me. I’d just come through St. John’s Courtyard after visiting St. Peter’s Church and my belly was telling me it was about time to find some lunch. I was also rather cold after spending time at the top of the church spire. The words ‘wild and organic food’ written on a blackboard outside the restaurant, the fact that the restaurant wasn’t crowded (I only spotted one other customer through the window) and the prospects of getting warm again were what enticed me in for a taste test, and I was not disappointed.
Restorāns 3 is situated in a historic stone building in Riga’s Old Town, with remnants of the mediaeval city wall incorporated into the room decor. Diners can enjoy a view of the cobble-stoned Kaļķu Street, where the city gates used to be.
All of the ingredients used at Restorāns 3 are responsibly sourced from Latvia only. They strictly avoid the use of meat and produce coming from farms that use intensive agricultural methods and the chefs strive to use every part of the ingredients in their recipes.
I ordered a three course set meal from their Forest Food lunch menu. The starter consisted of thin ribbons of pickled pumpkin sprinkled with pumpkin seeds and hazelnuts, wild forest duck rillette with a delicate crispy bacon crust, a ball of shredded white radish and an exquisite little swirl of horseradish and soured cream topped with a sprinkling of ‘dust’ and a few cress sprigs.
It was extraordinary!
The main course was an exquisite pike croquette with caramelised onion puree, burned leek, pickled cabbage, steamed kale and crispy bacon.
There was an accompanying breadboard with wheat flour breadsticks with garlic and parmesan (pictured below, left) and a nutty seeded dense rye bread. A small clay pot of olive oil was served with the bread.
Dessert was a rather interesting (and incredibly delicious) concoction. The menu lists it as “cherry/bio fennel/ ‘Laima’ chocolate’ (yay, my second Latvian word – Laima means chocolate as I subsequently discovered by stumbling upon a Laima Chocolate Shop.). However, the dessert was much more complex than this. There was a chocolate ‘dirt’, a gorgeously thick chocolate mousse topped with a sorbet (I think it might have been beetroot? The waiter did mention beetroot…), dried cherries and cherry puree. Utterly gorgeous, and just the right amount of sweet to finish off a perfectly filling meal.
To accompany my after-lunch coffee I was presented with two ‘Oreshki’ cookies; walnut shaped cookies with a Russian origin which is very popular in the Slavic countries. These crispy cookie shells are baked in a special walnut-shaped mould and are then filled with a dulce de leche filling. They are utterly scrumptious. There was a traditional brown coloured one and a black one, coloured with squid’s ink.
The stylishly contemporary Restorāns 3 offers a daily à la carte menu in its ground-floor ‘earth’ dining room (pictured above). In the evenings, you can enjoy a multi-course gourmet dinner one floor up in the stunningly decorated ‘sky’ restaurant.
Cost: The price for a three-course lunch menu is only €14.90 while a seven-course gourmet evening experience will only set you back €55.90.
From here I paid a visit to the Latvian National Museum of Art. The entry fee was only €3, and there were four floors of exhibitions to browse. A great way to stay out of the cold for awhile, and explore Latvian art history. As with most cultures (I believe), food made a regular appearance in the artwork.
Restorāns 1221 – more than the numbers
For my evening meal that day I chose a restaurant directly across the road from my hotel: Restorāns 1221. It was recommended to me by a walking tour guide outside St. Peter’s Church, and it sounded like an interesting place.
1221 was the year in which the street this restaurant is on appeared; the first street in the Old City. The building was built for the founder of the brotherhood of hunters for beavers, and the first thing I noticed about the menu was that beaver appears on it. I’d never been in a restaurant that served beaver before.
Despite the rather enticing main menu (I also spotted elk, venison, hare and a wide variety of other game dishes), I opted for a simple dish from their Latvian Cuisine section. I’d spied ‘grey peas and bacon’ on several different outdoor display menus throughout the city, and I was keen to try it – there must be a reason this was served everywhere.
Grey peas with bacon is a traditional Latvian dish often served at Christmas time. The peas themselves resemble large chickpeas with a brown outer and grey inner. They are a species native to Latvia and have recently acquired PDO (Protected Designation of Origin of the European Union) status.
They’re delicious! The peas are cooked with plenty of bacon and onions and served with kefir, a fermented milk. This was the first time I’d ever tried kefir, and I confess, despite the first few reluctant sips, I am a convert now to the drink. Apparently, it’s really good for you too.
Dessert was a rye-bread and cranberry parfait with vanilla sauce, and as I hadn’t yet tried any Latvian beers I bought a glass of Lielvardes Dark – a traditionally brewed Latvian dark beer.
Cost: €24 for the main, dessert and beer from the Euro wallet in my Post Office Travel Money Card.
Neiburgs – the mindful hotel
I spent two nights in Riga and stayed in an incredible hotel my husband picked out for me: Neiburgs. Situated in the heart of Riga’s Old Town, next to the Dom Cathedral, it’s just a few minute’s walk from Riga Central Market, St. Peter’s Church and a wide variety of restaurants and eateries.
Neiburgs is a boutique apartment hotel in a listed family Art Nouveau era property. During the renovations of the property, they were careful to preserve the original details of the building: wood parquets, adornments of walls and ceiling, windows, bannisters and doors.
The place is absolutely stunning – an oasis of calm in the centre of the old city.
They ever so kindly upgraded my reservation (which was originally for a studio apartment double) to a Senior Suite, complete with my own balcony overlooking the street.
“You are where you stay. What you eat. What you see.” they claim, and staff strive to make your stay as pleasant as possible. There’s a Turkish Spa, which I’m vexed I never had a chance to try out, a library and a rather exquisite restaurant where I ate on my first night in the city.
My starter was a beautifully plated Baltic herring tartare with raspberry vinegar-pickled red beetroot carpaccio and rye bread toast topped with a tiny fried quail’s egg. Who knew herring could taste so good?
For my main, I continued with the local seafood theme: oven-baked Latvian sturgeon fillet with cep pearl barley and a beetroot and caraway seed puree. Trout caviar and a cep sauce finished the dish, which was incredibly tender and delicious.
Dessert was a trio of sorbets served with fruit and mint sauce. A palette cleansing way to finish off the meal. Afterwards, the chef gifted me an aperitif of some local cherry wine, a delicious mouthful of cherry flavour from the Abavas winery. Established in 2010 this company quickly became the leading winery in Latvia. Yes, they grow their own grapes in Latvia!
Cost: €35 for the three-course evening meal and a glass of wine. €208 per night for the Senor Suite.
Neiburgs Hotel is located just a two-minute walk from the House of the Blackheads, one of the most popular landmarks in Old Riga.
Last but not least, I had to taste test the Riga Black Balsam I’d seen in shop windows throughout the Old City. This famous bitter, a blend of 24 all-natural ingredients including extracts of local grasses, roots, berries and buds was crafted in 1752 by a pharmacist named Kunze. With its 45% alcohol content it tastes, frankly, medicinal, but Latvians like theirs mixed into a cocktail called a Hot Balsam.
This cocktail is prepared with hot blackcurrant juice, various citrus syrups and a generous measure of Riga Black Balsam. It’s quite palatable!
Cost: €8 for the Hot Balsam cocktail in Neiburgs; €21 for a travel gift set of two clay bottles: original and black currant flavours at the airport to bring home.
RIGA RESTAURANTS
Latvia’s capital city boasts a wealth of restaurants of every cuisine. My trip there was only a short two-night break and although I did try to visit as many places as I could, I would love to return as there is so much more to discover. I love the sound of this Gourmet Quest Tour of Riga, where for only €80 you visit, with a group, four different restaurants for tastings and then choose your favourite for an evening meal.
I also like the sound of the Latvian Food Tasting Tour at the Riga Central Market. For only €20 a local foodie will take you on a two-hour tour of the market, taste testing the local delicacies from hemp butter, smoked meats, Latvian bread and more.
All in all, it was an extraordinary visit to a city I knew virtually nothing of beforehand, and I am glad I have had the experience I did. Exploring the city with a pre-paid Post Office Travel Card meant I could shop in Euros, or, in the case of the Air Baltic and KLM flights to get there, in GPB. The Post Office Travel Card can hold up to 13 different currencies, and it’s easily managed through a free app on your phone. It gives peace of mind – no more having to take credit cards, or buy cash or travellers’ cheques for global travelling, risking theft, and there’s no risk of overspending either. I’m sold on the idea and will be taking my card with me on all future trips. Click here to find out more about The Post Office Travel Money Card or read about what other bloggers got up to on their European City Breaks here: Take a European City Break without Breaking the Bank.
Have you ever been to Riga? What did you think of it? Where did you eat? Do you have any restaurants you’d recommend? Let me know in the comments!
This trip was sponsored by The Post Office, although all thoughts and opinions expressed are our own. Thank you for supporting the brands who make it possible for me to do what I love: mess up my kitchen and share food stories.
Andris
Great article, i’m glad that you enjoyed your trip!
Aradhaya Saha
This looks like an absolutely stunning place it makes travelling so much easier!
please you must have to visit in my restaurant .
2pots2cook
So glad to find you ! Will be back definitely ! Thank you !
Louise
Wow. Riga looks so beautiful covered in snow (even though I could do without the cold!)
Love your pictures and the dishes are interesting! Would love to go to Riga one day! Everything looks very unspoiled and authentic.
X Louise
Ashleigh Dougherty
Never thought about going to Latvia before, but it looks so lovely.. especially in the snow!
Emma
Gosh I can’t believe how ignorant I was of Latvian cuisine. There is some real food for thought here and I’m adding Riga (and the rest of Latvia) to my must visit list now. I don’t think I could have come away from that market without a suitcase full of food!
Nikki
This looks like an absolutely stunning place! I’ve used the Post Office travel money card before – it makes travelling so much easier!
Camilla Hawkins
Riga looks truly stunning the architecture, the food and the snow, what’s not to love-)
Sisley White
This trip looks amazing. I wish I could visit the same places! Lucky you!
Katy Stevens
It looks so beautiful and the food you have shared looks amazing too. I love seeing markets in other countries as they always seem to be so colourful!
Mona
Oh my gosh look at all that food…. It looks amazing!
I love the architecture of the buildings! I just adore ‘old’ architecture haha.
What an amazing view!
Crystal
Great food, beautiful view and a fun adventure, sounds like my kind of trip.
Victoria
Latvia isn’t a place I’ve ever thought of visiting. You seem to have had such a great time. I love posts like yours where I learn lots more about a place. I think I might have to take a visit one day. Thanks for sharing!
Sarah Ann
The food looks delicious! Good food, architecture and beautiful surroundings, what more could you possibly need?! Definitely on my travel list now.
Jen
It sounds gorgeous! Albeit extremely cold! Amazing photos.
Beth @ BethinaBox.com
Oh wow! I’m so glad I’ve just eaten otherwise I’d be heading for the goodies right now. This food looks amazing!
Caro - Taste of Savoie
Wow! Riga sounds an amazing place to visit and who knew they had such an incredible foodie thing going on. I would absolutely love to visit that huge market – you are so right, the way to discover a new place is through the gastronomy.
Bethany
The food, the view, and the adventure look right up my alley. It looks and sounds amazing.
Evelyne CulturEatz
Wow on all the food and what a gorgeous shot of the city. Reminds me a bit of Budapest from the castle. And I love visiting markets, that is an impressive one, Great place to see the locals in action.
bryanna skye
I need that eclair!!! it sounds so good, and I don’t even liked cakes or things like that usually!
Rachael
I love that you just took some euros out and went off on an adventure. That market in the hangars looks amazing, the photos are so colourful!
Laura H
Duck rillette is one of my fave things to eat and that’s the most beautifully presented one I’ve ever seen! Very jealous!
Stephen
-7 and here I was moaning I was cold this morning when it was 2 or 3 degrees! Your photos are just stunning.
Jen
Your trip to Riga looks amazing, with wonderful food and drink, and the architecture is just stunning. Your accomodation sounds perfect, and looks of a high standard. The indoor market looks like somewhere I could spend hours, and loving the idea of spice mixing from an expert. The cold is the only problem I see, but with the right clothing, that can easily be forgotten.
Melanie
What a lovely trip – I love the look of the markets so much fresh and fab produce x
Katy - Hot Pink Wellingtons
This is right up my street, I’m a huge fan of anything pickled, and especially beetroot, so I think I’d be right at home! I had no idea Riga was such a foodie place, it looks wonderful. I’d have loved browsing the market – I can just imagine the smells!
Jemma
Riga looks absolutely gorgeous and the snowy topped buildings are so pretty. I’ve had a Post Office Travel Card before and found them so handy.
Helen
Oh wow! As a big foodie I dream of exploring new foods in different countries 🙂
Rhian Westbury
I’ve never been to Riga but I’d be keen to go but outside of the winter as it was cold enough last weekend when I was in Luxembourg! All of the food looks great especially the yummy eclairs x
Pati
wow that looks like a fantastic place the food looks delicious and your photos are beautiful
Siobhan
Sounds like you had an amazing adventure! The food sounds beautiful, my mouth was watering just seeing the pictures. I love the views from the church spire. x #bloggerclubuk
Anosa Malanga
Indeed an extraordinary day for you. Amazing and cold experience yet a memorable one. Never been to this place but I would love to consider as well when I have a scheduled leave.
Shoshana Sue
Wow the view from the spire is absolutely breathtaking and it also kind of now shows me how cold it was and I can now understand you better when you mentioned how cold it was. I would like to visit Riga but only when the weather is warm enough!
Hannah
Oh those snowy photos are just beautiful! Pinned this for future reference 🙂
Ana De- Jesus
-7 degrees? Oh lord that is freezing no wonder you needed thermal underwear haha! Nevertheless I love that you opened yourself up to a new culture. For me as I am a massive foodie I would love to try the Gourmet Quest Tour of Riga, as I love that you are able to try out different restaurants out!
Laura Dove
Oh wow your photos are just stunning! What an amazing time you had, Riga is going straight on my bucket list!t
Sarah Bailey
What a time it seems like you had in Latvia! The food looks absolutely delicious and I have to admit I would love to have a look around at some of the markets. I can’t believe that last meal was only 35 euro for 3 courses what a great price!
Samantha Donnelly
What a great post and the pictures are making me hungry, I would love to visit here now after reading your post x
Joanna
Who knew that Riga had such an amazing food scene! I would love to taste their traditional dishes, but also visit Gatis in the market, for one of his special coffees.
Lily
Wow! It sounds and looks like you had such an amazing time out there!! I had no idea that The Post Office did things like this so that’s very handy to know!
If I ever end up in Riga, I’ll be sure to check out your suggestions!