Lamb and Spinach Curry (Karahi Gosht)

Ever wonder what Indian takeaway chefs cook for themselves at home? In this lamb and spinach curry recipe post, Shirazul Islam from the Bengal Spice takeaway in Lerwick, Shetland, shares his family recipe for a lamb and spinach karahi gosht.

The Great (Lamb) Curry Revival

In the 1970s, Indian takeaways soared in popularity in Great Britain. Up until the start of the 1970s, there were only around 1200 Indian takeaways throughout the UK.

After the Bangladesh War of Independence in 1971, Britain received thousands of immigrants fleeing the violence. By the end of the 70s, there were over 3000 Indian takeaways across the country. Menu items included chicken tikka masala, korma, madras, rogan josh, jalfrezi and vindaloo. Recipes were adapted to suit the Western palate: the Balti is thought to have originated in Birmingham during the late 1970s, and chefs are credited with creating the dish to suit Western tastes.

Now, there are over 17,000 curry houses across the UK, but it is estimated that over a third of these could face closure over the next decade.

What is causing this decline? Second-generation migrants are increasingly unwilling to enter the family trade, while staffing crises around working visas and salary caps are having a detrimental effect.

Also, tastes are changing in the UK – there is a common misconception that Indian food is high in fat and calories, with UK consumers opting for perceived healthier options.

Let me introduce you to Shirazul Islam, chef at the (now closed) Bengal Spice takeaway in Lerwick, Shetland.

Shirazul has been cooking curries in Indian takeaways for nearly 30 years after learning how to cook by watching his mother when he was young.

I recently visited his takeaway to learn how to make an authentic Indian curry, the kind that takeaway chefs cook for themselves and their families.

Shirazul taught me how to make this super easy but incredibly flavoursome lamb and spinach karahi.

Ingredients for lamb and spinach curry

Jump to the full, printable recipe below.

How to make lamb and spinach curry

1. Heat sunflower oil in a large, heavy-based pan or a karahi if you have one. Toast the cumin seeds in the hot oil for 10-20 seconds.
2. Add 2 thinly sliced onions, garlic, ginger and salt. Saute until the onion begins to soften.
3. Add the bone-in lamb shoulder and brown all over.
4. Add the remaining spices, stir well to coat and pop the lid on the pan. Cook over medium heat for 10 minutes.
5. Add a little water, and cook for a further 10 minutes.
6. Add the remaining onion, coarsely chopped, the diced peppers and the spinach. Cook for a further 10-20 minutes.

Ok, so my lamb and spinach curry isn’t nearly as pretty as Shirazul’s, but recreating his recipe at home was super easy, and I’m quite pleased with the results! That’s dinner sorted for the next few days!

Interview with Shirazul Islam – chef at Bengal Spice

What was the first lamb dish you ever learned to make?

I was 17 and my cousin had found me a job in a curry house in Lymington, near Bournemouth. It was there I learned how to make a lamb and potato curry.

What’s your favourite lamb dish on the menu?

I like our lamb nawabi. I like the coconut flavour; it’s not like a korma, though. It’s lightly spiced with just a little coconut and lemongrass. Once you add the yogurt to it, all the flavours start coming out.

How does lamb complement common spices used in curries?

Less spice is needed when cooking with lamb as it has such a unique flavour, but cumin, coriander, chilli and turmeric all complement lamb very well.

Can you share one lamb ‘cooking hack’?

Cook lamb as slowly as possible, and use bone-in lamb with the marrow for extra flavour. Fresh lamb straight from the butcher is the best.

What are your top tips for Indian cooking at home?

I would recommend roasting and grinding your own spices for the best flavour. I make my own garam masala blend, and it makes a big difference.

How do you make your garam masala?

Preheat your oven to a very low heat and mix together:

Roast for 40-45 minutes, allow to cool and then grind to a powder. Store in an airtight container.

Some of these same spices went into the most delicious cup of tea I have ever tasted!

Shirazul treated me to my first authentic cup of masala chai—milky hot tea brewed with cinnamon, cloves, bay leaves, and cardamom. Ordinary black tea is first simmered in a pan of water with the spices before plenty of milk (and sugar) is added. It was incredible, almost like a sweet dessert.

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