Burra Ness Broch is an ancient archaeological site on the island of Yell in Shetland, Scotland. This Iron Age structure, known as a broch, is a type of drystone hollow-walled structure that is unique to Scotland. The broch at Burra Ness is situated on a promontory, offering stunning views of the surrounding sea and landscape.
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We’ve recently had a spell of unseasonable glorious, sunny weather. Nearly two weeks of sun and very little wind (for our standards), and so come the start of the October school holidays I made an executive decision to take my younger two children on a grand overnight adventure to the island of Yell, Britain’s second most northerly island.
On my spring cycling trip through the islands of Unst and Yell, I was shown, from a distance on the Fetlar ferry, the location of the ruins of a fairly well-preserved Iron Age broch on the northeast tip of Yell. I’d mentally bookmarked the site as a place to explore later.
The first weekend of the October holidays was predicted to continue to be gloriously sunny, so I packed our car full of camping gear, and we set off early on Saturday morning to catch the ferry from the mainland of Shetland to Yell.
Missing the ferry to Yell
And we missed the ferry by five minutes.
No matter; we spent the next hour exploring the beach and pier and caught the next ferry. We explored the beach and spotted quite a few ‘Scaddy Man’s Heids’, as they are locally known (sea urchins), close enough to the water’s surface to photograph. They’re such an intriguing species!
My original plans were to spend the day hiking out to this beach, check out a new American-style diner that’s just opened in Mid Yell, and camp overnight at the Burravoe Pier Trust campsite, a well-maintained campsite with tent pitches.
Plan B was to see if I could ring the custodian for the Windhouse Camping Bod situated in Mid Yell near Shetland’s most haunted house – Windhouse. I’d spent two nights there during my cycle trip, and I’d loved it so much I wanted to show it to my children. Plus, outdoor camping in October in Shetland is probably not the warmest of activities. I’d left it too late on Friday afternoon to book the camping bod via the Amenity Trust, who run and maintain it, so I wanted to see if I could ring the lady with the key when I got to Yell. I found her number on the camping bod door and left a message.
Gutcher Ferry Terminal
We began our hike at the Gutcher ferry terminal, parking the car in the parking lot I ballroom danced in under the moonlight many years ago for a National Theatre of Scotland production (true story! It was a bizarre but fantastic production involving ballroom dancing, transport, and parkour!).
We popped into the newly opened Gutcher Goose Shop & Cafe for provisions (it reopened this May, shortly after my cycle trip) and walked along the shoreline to a nearby Standing Stone I’d read about in the book Walking Shetland by Mary Walsh in walk #21.
The kids were nonplussed about the standing stone. “Mum, it’s just a big rock!”
If you look carefully along the fence line towards the right in the photo above and you can see my youngest son in a sulk because he can’t walk one single step further (we’d only started our journey over by the pier in the background of the photo!).
We spot a Shetland otter
Things started getting more interesting when we stumbled across a Shetland otter! Well I stumbled across it first – I was walking about twenty paces ahead of my whinging children when I saw it, and it saw me, and we both, for a brief moment, made eye contact and paused, stone still.
I gestured behind me to try and get the kids to stop or at least walk silently. “What, Mum? Whaaat? WHAT IS IT, MUM? WHAT DO YOU SEE?! ” The otter scurried away down the cliffs to the beach below. I snapped a photo of its rather broad backside, pictured above! Man, that thing was huge!
Fast forward an hour and a half after we scurried down the side of a bank to have our picnic lunch on the beach in a lovely sheltered area (the otter followed us for a good twenty minutes, swimming alongside in the sea!), and the moods of the children had improved significantly (I think they might have been hungry!). The sun was gloriously warm above us.
We spotted the Burra Ness broch in the distance (pictured above). The land is green all around it—this is because they cleared and cultivated the ground for growing their food two thousand years ago. You can still see the piles of stones in the field where they laid them while clearing the ground.
May Moar – RNLI Silver Medal for Gallantry
It was around this area in 1858 where May Moar abseiled down the cliff to a rocky precipice below with two other women holding fast the rope. She rescued two men who had been thrown from their boat in a fierce storm and was award the RNLI Silver Medal for Gallantry.
A report from the Times quotes:
“If some o’you will guide weel this rope,” she said decisively, dashing from her face her woman’s tears, “I’ll gang ower the [precipice] and save the men wi’ God’s help”
Good news
At this point, overlooking the beach below, my phone rang. I don’t get a mobile signal in my own house, so to receive a phone call here, in the middle of nowhere, after traipsing across boggy moors and clifftops – well, I was rather surprised!
It was the custodian for the Windhouse Bod. Yes, it was available, and yes, we could stay there the night. She’d leave the key hidden for us! Yay!
The kids abandoned me while I was on this phone call, running down the hillside to the beach below. You can see them in the photo above – two little dots on the shoreline.
Beach combing
Madam picked up a few sheep skulls off the beach—a ram and an ewe—and we could compare the differences between them (one had very wobbly teeth). We also spotted quite a few washed-up lobster/crab creels and some half-dried skin that looked like it might have been some bizarre deep-sea creature with spiky dinosaur scales.
We continued along the waterfront, finding a few noosts (hollowed-out areas where the local crofters used to house their small boats) until we reached the broch itself, a rather formidable structure overlooking the water.
Burra Ness Broch
What is a broch, you might be asking? It’s a hollow drystone Iron Age structure built about 2000 years ago. They seem to be located only around the coastal areas of Scotland, and historians aren’t entirely sure what their purpose was. Dwelling houses? Defence structures? It may have served both as a defensive stronghold and a symbol of wealth and power.
The site is a testament to the ingenuity and craftsmanship of its builders, featuring remnants of walls that once stood several meters high. Though partially ruined, standing at four metres on its seaward side, Burra Ness Broch remains an intriguing glimpse into the distant past of Shetland.
There are over 120 brochs around Shetland, and Burra Ness Broch is one of Shetland’s best preserved, following Mousa and the Clickimin brochs.
It’s pretty magnificent. And it’s never been excavated, either. Who knows what treasures lie beneath all that rubble?
The walk back didn’t take nearly as long as we headed back up the hill and across the field to a road in Kirkabister. If I were to suggest that anyone do this hike again, I’d say to start from there as it suggests on the Burra Ness Circular walk on Shetland.org.
We’re glad we went the route we did, though. It was a rather adventurous day! Seals, an otter, cliffs, beaches, prehistoric buildings, fresh sea air and sunshine – you can’t get better than that!
It turns out that my youngest could walk one step further. In fact, according to my Fitbit, he did another 20,000 steps, at least! It was a good ten-mile hike that we did.
Takeaway and glamping
We finished off our adventure in Yell by ordering takeaway pizzas for the kids and a rack of maple-glazed ribs for me at the newly opened L&J’s Diner and Pizzeria in Mid Yell. With its Wild West theme and American-style menu, this is a place we will be returning to soon!
We made ourselves comfy with our dinner in the Windhouse Lodge cottage, and I lit a roaring fire in the little cast iron stove.
I’d forgotten to pick up some firelighters in the shop, and although bags of firewood were provided, there was nothing but a box of matches to get the fire lit with. I used some Loki’s candles (curled pieces of birch bark found on the beach that have likely drifted over from Canada) and a handful of very dried tiny pieces of driftwood I’d collected off another beach a few weeks ago and forgotten about in the boot of the car. That and a cardboard Smartie tube found underneath a car seat did the trick!
There’s no such thing as ghosts
Despite being cosied up in the gatehouse to Shetland’s most haunted house, Windhouse (located up on the hill behind the lodge) we slept soundly.
Well, mostly.
The only one who woke up whispering, “What was that?! Mum, Mum, I’ve heard something!” was the one who, earlier in the day, declared in her most Hermione Granger voice: “I do not believe in ghosts.”
Hiking in Shetland: Skill Levels
My hikes tend to be more strenuous than a casual stroll through the park. They’re usually long, hilly, coastal, and rather exposed to the elements. A reasonable level of fitness (and stubborn determination) is often required.
To help you decide whether this hike is for you, I’ve graded my hikes into three categories: easy, moderate and challenging.
Easy
Reasonably flat with a well-defined path or markers.
Duration: 1-2 hours.
Moderate
May involve significant elevation changes. You may need to climb over a stile or two or pick your way across rough terrain. Take care along cliff edges.
Duration: at least half a day.
Challenging
A full day’s adventuring. Pack a rucksack with food and provisions, because you’re going out into the wild. There’s no path, except for the occasional sheep gait. Take extra care along cliff edges. You might want to bring a rope.
Duration: a full day
Hiking in Shetland – Things to Remember
- Always follow the Scottish Outdoor Access Code.
- Take layers, even in the summer. The weather can be changeable,
- Mobile signal isn’t always guaranteed on Shetland, so bring a map and compass (and know how to use them!), just in case.
- Take care not to block track access for crofters when parking your vehicle.
- Make sure you close any gates you’ve opened. Use stiles, if available.
- Always tell someone where you’re going and when you will be expected back.
- For more information, visit Shetland: a Guide to Outdoor Access.
Further reading
- Walking on the Orkney and Shetland Isles (2016) by Graham Uney
- Walking Shetland (2014) by Mary Walsh and Christine Isherwood
Chocolate Peanut Butter Swirl Halloween Cake
I always love hearing about your adventures on Shetland! They’re just the sort of fun I enjoy! Impressed that you saw an otter with the kids in tow, mine are always so loud too! We love visiting old brochs too and like to imagine what it would be like to live there. £10/head for the cottage is very reasonable too! Thanks for linking up to #Whatevertheweather x
That place is stunning and looks like an amazing adventure you’ve had. Pizza is well deserved too. 😉
#countrykids
How absolutely stunning is your adventure?
I think you were brave to camp mid October, then again this year the weather has been dry and that’s the main thing!
Your trip to Yell was full of excitement and adventure it looks like, and a place to blowout the cobwebs and just explore. And then to see an Otter on land – waddling away he does look huge!
I think your children are very lucky to be so close to such an amazing landscape
#CountryKids
I really enjoyed reading this, so much adventure.Seeing an Otter up close must have been an experience, you did well to capture it, bottom in all.I wonder what is under all that rubble?
What a fabulous adventure and you had such gorgeous weather for it – I would never have guessed from the photos that they were taken in October. Love that you managed to capture the otter on camera and the photos of the coastline are just stunning. The broch sounds like a fascinating place and I love that your daughter was the one who woke up thinking she’d heard something having firmly declared that she didn’t believe in ghosts. I’m not sure I do either but I don’t think I’d be brave enough to stay somewhere that was supposed to be haunted! 🙂 #countrykids
What a fab post, such a great adventure and what memories! I love the pic of the otter, I saw one once and I was so excited! I can’t wait to do things like this when Finn is a bit older 🙂 #whatevertheweather
Whaaat, I need to hear more about ball dancing in a car park?!
What a lovely outdoor adventure in a beautiful area. I’m glad you managed to get your accommodation for night and it did tickle me that the one who doesn’t believe in ghosts suddenly started hearing things haha. We’re considering a spring trip up to northern Scotland so we’ll definitely consider Yell.
David – Potty Adventures
#whatevertheweather
ah what a lovely story.. and to tell it so beautifully with those stunning photos… talk about thinking on your feet lighting that fire with just matches and no firelighters…
What a fantastic adventure. I love all the detail you’ve included about Yell and its history. I think it might have been me up in the night. I love to hear ghost stories but have a habit of freaking myself out 🙂 Thanks so much for sharing with #MondayEscapes
My body is in Paris, laptop on my lap, hubby watching football, but my mind is walking through glorious British countryside, soaking up fresh air, and I have a spring in my step as I clamber up over rocks and stumble over stiles. Thanks for taking me away with you!
Wow! Incredible photos! That Otters bottom though…the lodge sounds like a real treat and a great bargain too!
Lucky you on the weather front! It’s just been terrible here. It looks like a beautiful walk and I am super in love with your first image! I love skulls, as odd as that may sound haha. The views are breath taking.
Jordanne || Thelifeofaglasgowgirl.co.uk
This is wonderful – a real adventure and precious memories for the kids. I love the way that you didn’t book anything in advance; this always adds to the feeling of exploration and discovery. My eldest son would give anything to get that close to a wild otter (we’ve spotted them from a distance on Arran before, but never had a close encounter). And thanks for educating me as to what a “broch” is: I really had no idea!
beautiful photos!
I loved reading this! We did a Scottish road trip earlier this year in a motorhome and I could easily have gone on for months. I’m a little obsessed with returning. I read The Outrun recently which got me even more excited about remote islands. My son was obsessed with the skulls on the beach in Skye, he’d love this #mondayescapes
What a lovely story – I was gripped by your adventures till the end! Yell sounds incredible. I knbow southern Scotland reasonably well, but I’e never been further north. I really should change that – the Highlands and Islands look out of this world.
It looks like such a beautiful place. The photos are lovely. How great that you saw an otter x
Love the post! The pictures are beautiful. Nice to be one with nature I guess…
Such gorgeous pictures of what sounds like a fabulous and educational hike. The views look just wonderful too. I really enjoyed reading this and learn about the broch.xx #countrykids
Such beautiful pictures, with breath taking views. I have never visited here before, but would love too. The beach looks amazing and nice and quiet 🙂
Love this! So much information and what a great adventure. An otter! Also, love the Smarties tube improv!
Kat x
We’re never been to any of the islands and hat as a shame as they are so close, w must rectify this. Mich x
We’re not, really. 14 hour overnight ferry, or a small fortune in flights (it’s cheaper to go to America!). Hope you do make it up here one day though!
It’s been so lovely to read this and look at your photos. A friend moved to Yell a few years ago and it looks like such a beautiful place to be. Spotting that otter must have been so exciting too #CountryKids
Looks stunning, the beach looks beautiful. I am not sure I would want to stay in a haunted house though, huge scaredy cat here! x
Lovely family adventure. Loved the pics and the description. Nature adventures are great for children too.
Love the photos, such a beautiful place. Never heard of Scaddy Man’s Heids but it made me smile. Looks like a lovely exploration!
Great photos!! Its lovely to capture these moments! £4 a pitch thats a steal!!!
I have to admit that I’ve never heard of Yell. That place looks amazing. You took some great photos.
Having grown up in scotland i am ashamed to say that i have never heard of Yell. It looks stunning tho and well done for staying in the haunted house!
I grew up in Scotland and camped and hiked all around but not Shetland. One day I’ll take my family there. Such a lovely post and fabulous photos!
You should definitely come for a visit! It’s such a stunning place (when the weather is good!) 🙂
What a beautiful place with such spectavular views. Its breathtaking.
It is a pretty magnificent place, isn’t it. 🙂
It looks so nice there, I’d love to visit and see for myself one day.
You should! It’s Britain’s treasure, it is. Beautiful beaches all to yourself – miles and miles of quiet wilderness, perfection! 🙂
Loved the “spot the sulky son” photo! We have a fair few of those too! It looks like a really beautiful place, though probably not the place to go with my children.
He felt much better after he’d eaten a bit of lunch. I was treated to a monologue of all things Minecraft as we hiked! It’s a pretty easy walk, to be honest, even though there aren’t paths. Perfectly suited for older children.
Beautiful photographs of a beautiful island. There is no finer scenery than in Scotland especially when the sun shines! Well done on the Girl Scout skills btw.
Haha, thanks Janice 🙂 It is a stunning place, isn’t it. I forget that sometimes being stuck indoors in front of the computer!
My youngest would be just the same. Shouting at the wrong moment to find out why he had to be quiet. What a fabulous walk and place to stay the night. Lovely to see so many creatures. #CountryKids
Kids, eh?! They’re all the same, lol!
What beautiful pictures you have taken!! The island looks like a walking paradise and I can’t believe the price of your little cottage, it looks so incredibly cosy.
Thanks Emma 🙂 It really is a fantastic little cottage. It’s got electricity and running water too, which is a bonus!
Oh wow such beautiful photos. I’d love to live somewhere like that. The hubby dreams of retiring to a log cabin somewhere, maybe one day…
It really is a pretty place when the sun shines. 🙂
Your live in paradise! Beautiful landscape and more importantly, your kids have it for a playground 🙂 #countrykids
We are really rather lucky, aren’t we. I forget that sometimes with the hustle and bustle of life.
What a wonderful day of exploration for you and the kids, you really do have some spectacular scenery to explore close by to you. I’m amazed by how much wildlife you managed to spot at this time of year, I would’ve thought that they’d all be settling into their winter hideaways. It looks like after all the whinge at the start of the walk the kids loved their adventure on the island of Yell with you, it’s fab that you could treat them to takeaway pizzas after that walk, they definitely earned them!
Thanks for linking up with me on #CountryKids.
We were really surprised at how much we saw. That particular area is supposed to be really good for otter spotting, so we were delighted to actually see one so close and out of the water!
Stunning photos of stunning scenery! It looks so gorgeous there, you’ve made it an addition to my ‘must go to’ list!
If you ever get the chance definitely come up for a visit! It’s a really unique island 🙂
This looks like the most amazing trip. I would love to do something like this when my children are older. I love the pics, especially the sea urchin
It was really nice to have a bit of a staycation. Our remote islands have so many wonderful places to explore!